Clinically Proven Wrinkle Treatments - Alpha-Hydroxy Acids

Clinically Proven Wrinkle Treatments — Alpha-Hydroxy Acids

Alpha hydroxy acids have been very popular in skincare industry for several years, although their cosmetic use has started several decades ago. They are a group of structurally related organic acids found in natural sources or synthesized in the laboratory.

There are two ways in which alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used:

1. High strength alpha hydroxy acids are used by dermatologists in chemical peels. Several studies convincingly demonstrated that such peels can reverse some signs of skin aging. In a 1996 study at the University of Los Angeles, California, forty five volunteers were treated with 50 percent glycolic acid or vehicle alone. The treatment was applied to one side of the face, forearms and hands for 5 minutes once weekly for 4 weeks. The researchers concluded that “application of 50 percent glycolic acid peels improves mild photo aging [aging due to sun damage] of the skin.” Another study conducted at Hahnemann University School of Medicine, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, tested a lotion containing 25 percent of glycolic, lactic or citric acid against a placebo lotion. The treatment was continued for 6 month. Alpha hydroxy acids treatment lead to a 25 percent increase in skin thickness, improved quality of elastic fibers and increased density of collagen. The researches concluded that alpha hydroxy acids “produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photo aging.” Peels with high strength alpha hydroxy acids (over 15%) should not be done without the supervision of a dermatologist.
2. The most common use of alpha hydroxy acids is in OTC skincare products formulated for regular use. Most products contain relatively low concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids, usually 5-15 percent.. Most studies of 8 - 15% alpha hydroxy acids report modest improvements in wrinkles and skin smoothness. Concentrations at the high end of this range might be a little more effective but are more likely to cause irritation.

Add comment March 21st, 2008